Txakoli, the wine of Basque Country
Txakoli, also known as chacolí, is a low-alcohol wine (10.5%), slightly acidic, and with intense aromas of citrus, herbs, and flowers. Production is primarily of white wine, although rosé and red wines are also produced in smaller quantities.
This wine is produced in Cantabria, Burgos, and some parts of Chile, but the largest production is in the Basque Country, specifically in the wineries of the coastal Basque towns of Getaria, Zarautz, and Aya.
Today, the following designations of origin exist: Arabako Txakolina, the designation of origin for Álava, specifically in the Aya region, the Arrastaria Valley, and the Llodio Valley; Bizkaiko Txakolina, the designation of origin for Biscay, primarily in Bakio and Valmaseda; and Getariako Txakolina, the designation of origin for Getaria (Gipuzkoa).
Although its exact origin is unknown, the first documents mentioning this wine place it in the 14th century in the Basque town of Lekeitio, in Biscay. In the past, txakoli was produced in farmhouses or country homes using traditional methods; it was neither filtered nor clarified, so before drinking it was poured from a height, much like natural cider is today. In recent years, several wineries have begun to study and improve its production to achieve better taste and aromas.
What grape varieties are used to make Txakoli?
The main grape variety used to make Txakoli is Hondarrabi Zuri (zuri means white in Basque), a white variety native to the Basque Country. Wines made with Hondarrabi Zuri are usually a pale greenish-yellow color and are characterized by being light, fresh, with high acidity and a fine effervescence.
For the production of red and rosé Txakoli, locally called «ojo de gallo» (rooster’s eye), the Hondarrabi Beltza variety is used (beltza means black in Basque). Wines made with Hondarrabi Beltza have good structure and are characterized by being very bold and robust on the palate. Currently, these wines are experiencing a resurgence in popularity due to their unique character and freshness.
Other varieties that are used, although to a lesser extent, to make txakoli in Getaria are Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratie (Petit Corbú), Izkiriota (Gross Manseng), Riesling and Chardonnay. In Álava and Vizcaya you can also use Mune Mahatsa (Folle Blanche), Izkiriota Tippi (Petit Manseng) and Sauvignon Blanc.
How do you drink txakoli?
Txakoli is a versatile wine that has long since ceased to be a seasonal beverage and is no longer limited to a specific time of year.
It can be enjoyed on its own, although it’s perfect with traditional Basque pintxos or any appetizer. Its acidity increases saliva production and stimulates the secretion of gastric juices, preparing the body for better digestion.
It’s also an ideal accompaniment to seafood and fish, both oily and white. Txakoli facilitates the assimilation of proteins (chemical compounds that include amino acids and other structures that produce them) thanks to its ionic acidity and low osmotic pressure.
It’s also becoming increasingly popular to pair txakoli with modern dishes, such as sushi.
How is txakoli made?
Txakoli is produced in a unique growing environment. The Basque Country has an irregular, mountainous topography without extreme altitudes, creating valleys, riverbanks, and hillsides with varying heights and inclines. During the vine growing season (March to September), the temperature ranges between 8 and 22ºC, with variable annual rainfall. The soils have a neutral or slightly alkaline pH, with distinct layers of hard rocks, sediments, and sand.
The harvest begins towards the end of September or the beginning of October, when the grape bunches reach their optimal ripeness. The grapes are picked by hand and transported in plastic crates to the wineries. Many wineries carry out a low-temperature maceration process on the must and berries remaining after destemming to extract all the aromas and compounds present in the grape skins.
The must is fermented in stainless steel tanks at around 15ºC for two to three weeks. Although txakoli is ready by the end of autumn, most wineries wait a few more weeks for it to reach its full potential.
During the winter months, pruning is carried out in the vineyards, and the cleaning, stabilization, and filtering phase takes place in the wineries. It is also during this time that the majority of tastings and quality and typicity checks of the txakoli are performed.
Around the first half of April, the first leaves appear, and the flower buds begin to open towards the end of May. The weather conditions during these weeks will determine the final result of the txakoli, making this a crucial time in production.
In summer, the main tasks focus on clearing or controlling the vegetation between the rows of vines, as well as pruning to reduce and control the growth of the vine branches. Gradually, the grapes will grow, incorporating sugars and decreasing their acidity. At the end of summer, when the harvest date is anticipated, a light leaf removal will be carried out to facilitate proper aeration, preventing condensation and unwanted rot.
Text: SPL and Intelier
Image: SPL and Bizkaiko Txakolina